I'm new in 3D printing.
In a couple of days I will receive the first roll of plastic and I will try my first printing job.
I think I will have to recalibrate the print bed because I see it does not have the same distance from the print head when it is at the 4 corners of the printing area.
So... what is the correct distance of the print bed from the print head?
Thanks for your answer.
I use a piece of card stock as my gauge.
Thank you Michael
Most people seem to use a piece of standard weight printer paper (which is about 0.1mm thick). That seems to work for me.
Keep in mind that you should set the distance with everything heated and stabilized
It can be challenging to get the entire print area perfect. Since my parts are usually not that large I usually only adjust around the area where I will be printing. Whatever works for you.
I'm trying to produce my very first print.
The first tryout was bad because the plastic didn't stick on the bed... probably the distance was not correct.
Now I've re-positioned the bed using a paper sheet - as you saied... sorry I haven't done it with the bed already warm... in a few minutes the printer will reach the temperature and then it should begin to print... let's see what comes out...
Ok, all wrong: I re-calibrated the distance with the bed already warm.
But the plastic does not stick on the print bed - even if I put the sticker on it!
Moreover... why does the print bed go down about 10 mm at the beginning - as soon as it reaches the working temperatre - and then comes up before moving to the x-y position where the part has to be printed? Is it correct?
I notice that the extrusion begins after the first circunference: the one that is not involved in the piece to be printed... do I have to ask the machine to provide for more circunferences before beginning to do the real printing part?
How is it possible???
The plastic goes into the extruder, but nothing comes out!!!
Where is it going?
>Where is it going?
I'm sure you've figured that out by now. It;s being pushed into the space between the hob wheel and the entrance to the hot end. Hopefully you were able to reverse it all back out. The question of course is why did it do that? There are a number of things that can cause that. For example if you actually got the nozzle too close to the bed it could prevent the plastic from flowing.
I don't know about the 10mm question. That would be in the startup script in your slicer software, perhaps part of a purge routine. What slicer are you using?
The "circumference" that you mention is called a "skirt". It's intended to prime the extruder before starting the print. That can be configured in your slicer software. You should be seeing at least some of that being printed before the actual part starts printing.
Getting the plastic to stick to the bed is something everybody struggles with at first. Although the stickers certainly can work and are favored by a number of people, I'll tell you what I and a lot of other people use. It seems to be more forgiving and works for both PLA and ABS.
Glue stick if you have access to it. Many use UHU brand. I use Elmer's Craft Bond Permanent glue stick. Put on a thin coat when the bed is cold then heat the bed to 60 C. Then add a little more just before you print. You can usually add more several times. It's water soluble so when it gets too lumpy you can take a damp cloth to slightly dissolve it and spread it around, Eventually you either wash it off a damp cloth or scrape it off with a razor blade (some people even reuse what they scrape off :-).
i use the gauges for sparkplugs to determine the distance between glass and nozzles.
I use 0.2mm from nozzle tip to glass. the plastic film is 0.1mm and first layer is 40% that works for me. those zweckform sheet work best. Kapton tape is shit.
I use feeler gauges as well and generally about .2 mm is perfect when you have a print surface (sticker) installed. I don't use Kapton and I don't use glue -- I just use the standard Leapfrog Perfect-Print Surfaces (stickers). Also the most important thing before you calibrate distance between nozzle and bed is to make sure your nozzles are at exactly the same height/level as each other otherwise any calibration you do won't really work properly for dual printing.
I am sure you have found this by now since it was 3 months since you posted the question.
I presume it is correct since in the Scripts there is a Starting G-Code instructing a G1 Z15.0 F180 where the tool (the extruder) moves up (actually the bed goes down, but same result).
The following 3 clips will guide you through the installation process of your Creatr. By following these, you will be printing within 30 minutes. First start with unpacking the printer. Clickhere to see how you correctly pick up the printer
In this clip, you will be guided through the unpacking of a brand new Creatr. The unboxing along with the location of tie wraps which need to be removed are shown, as well as the process of a connecting the cables to the printer and computer.
In this clip, we will show you how to install the required software. The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. The next step is to download and install the Repetier Host Leapfrog software or that controlls your 3D printer. We have tried to make this as simple as possible and also provided direct downloading links per operating system.
SIMPLIFY 3D SOFTWARE
If you are using the new Simplify 3D software you can follow all the steps except for the Repetier-Host Leapfrog installation and using explanation. Simply download the software via the purchase link and before first use a pop-up will appear showing you the Simplify 3D Quick start guide. You can also download the Quick start guide or access it from the software via help –> Quick start guide. The quick start guide will briefly explain the functions of the software so that you can start your first print.
Please select you operating system and follow the descriptions in the movie.
The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. The next step is to download and install the newest version of the Repetier Host Leapfrog software as shown in the clip. This software allows you to convert your 3D software file [STL for example] to a printable file [G-Code] and allows you to control your printer. The Repetier Host Leapfrog software contains standard Creatr Print Profiles. Just select the extruder, the filament material as well as the color and Repetier will automatically select the ideal print temperature providing you the best print quality possible. There is also a Leapfrog support button implemented in the software. A Mac version will be available soon.
If you have followed the installation procedure, but you can’t control your Leapfrog Creatr and the “6 commands waiting” message in Repetier-Host Leapfrog won’t disappear, you have to install the 2.8.28 drivers. Please see Solution can’t connect 6 commands waiting in Repetier-Host Leapfrog how to do so.
For a more thorough description of Slic3s settings please check this guide!
To install the Arduino drivers on a computer with Windows 8 follow these steps after downloading the Arduino software.
- Save unsaved work and write the instructions down
[your computer will reboot into startup options screen]
- Press the Windows Key and the ‘R’ key simultaneously
- Copy the command inside the brackets
–>[ shutdown.exe /r /o /f /t 00 ] – Select ‘Troubleshoot’
- Select ‘Advanced options’
- Select ‘Startup Settings’
- Select ‘Disable Driver Signature Enforcement’
- Install driver as usual via device manager
In this clip, we will explain you how you can generate a STL file using Sketchup. We show you what to download and how to export your design in STL.
In this final clip, the process of creating your first print will be explained. This starts with removing the callibration print that is already on the print bed. How to insert the filament and operate the Repetier Host Leapfrog software is also shown, which should culminate in your first 3D Print on the Creatr!
The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. You will then need to in stall this driver for OSX to recognize the hardware.
The next step is to download the Repetier software as shown in the clip. This software allows you to convert your 3D software file [STL for example] to a printable file [G-Code] and allows you to control your printer. We have developed standard print profiles for the Creatr. Please follow the instructions below to install the print profiles for Mac [not yet included in the video]:
- Download This file
- Go to your Home Folder on Mac and select “Go to Folder” from the Go Menu en type “Library/Application Support/Slic3r/” - Unzip the file you just downloaded and dump the contents in the Slic3r folder, it will replace your existing settings. If you want to keep your current settings as well, take the contents from each folder and put this in the same folder in the Home/Libaray/App../Slic3r folder.
Download instructions by Deepak Dinesh Mehta For a more thorough description of Slic3s settings please check this guide!
Please request a firmware download via the Ticket System