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bed leveling


just tried my first big print. while leveling the bed I noticed 2 things.

something doesnt seem straight.:

If all is straight you would expect that if all 4 corners are level everything in between is also level, well this is not the case. 

the center is much higher, a few 0.1 mm ( I have to measure exactly yet but around 0.3mm, cold bed.) 

Also I noticed the left tip is a little shorter than the right tip.( is this normal?) 

5 people have this problem

Marc did your solution work? Could you elaborate on exactly what you did? Thanks

Marcel- based on what Jens said, instead of drilling threads into the bed and voiding the warranty, why not use smaller bolts. I just took them out and measured them, they're M6 bolts of 30mm height. If they're replaced with M5 bolts of the same height, and two nuts are used (above the glass plate and below the metal plate), then the threads in the metal plate become redundant and the height can be changed by tightening or loosening the lower nut. The glass plate might move around by a total of 1mm but after heating up the plate, theoretically the expansion would prevent that. This is just a theory. I plan to test it out. Does anyone see a problem with this solution? 

Hello! I experienced the same. It seems like the beams holding the carriage are bent in the middle due to the weight. Is this a fault in the machine or can't we expect a higher precision? I thought working with a much thicker first layer you could compensate for the problem of sticking the large print to your bed. However, in the next layers the second extruder slightly hits the print every time it moves.
I think compared to my old Leapfrog Creatr, my Creatr HS has also got a quite curved bed. I told them my bed was curved as well but they did not send me a new one. I tried to very carefully adjust each bolt and it seemed like the curve got less. For calibrating the bed I used one of those devices with fixed thickness metal strips (used for car tires or something? I am not sure). You can just place the nozzle on several places above the bed, put the metal strip under the nozzle and adjust the screws until you can only remove the strip with some resistance. Do this again and again until you think you have got the best calibration possible.
But during the first three months of printing it got slowly worse and worse and now I actually need to calibrate it again. Maybe due to drift of the sensor or by the glass plate slightly bending more.

By the way, I doubt whether sending you a new glass plate helps you with your problem. All printers have a slightly bent building plate (although I do think the one Creatr HS has got quite a bent bed) and at some point you just have to deal with it. Just use a thicker first layer or something.

In the hope that my answer helped someone,



Yes I have thought about that solution as well. But as I really need the time to finish the many prints I still need to do before the summer holidays and I carefully adjusted my bed in a way it works now, I will not spend time on changing the bolts.

Your idea is ok but i would leave one of the nuts out. You can just use one nut on the glass plate side and use head of the bolt on the other side. The head is large enough to not slide through the threaded hole. You can also use two but you don't need two.


FYI, I drilled out the threads in the bed and presto my curved bed was no longer, or at least, it is far less curved now. 

Also, the added benefit of not needing to re-calibrate the bed all the time, I haven't touch it since. 

I guess that there wasn't enough clearance for the screws, when the glass expands during heating, then it curved, drilling out the threads, gave  enough clearance.

This worked for me. 

You should count on the materials shrinking also

Hi, I also have the same issue (the center being higher). Already spent days measuring and came to the same conclusion.  I still have a ticket open for this.

The glass plate is level (checked it using a level & square) so it must be the X or Y axis.

Small prints are fine now BUT ONLY if I position them at the front of the plate and perform a calibration on only that area. If I then try to print it in the middle, it fails as there is a big difference in height.

Using the entire print area as advertised (and why I bought it in the first place) is NOT possible.

One extruder being lower as the other one is easily fixed. 

You drilled out the threads in the metal? I guess it could work but if I do that I lose the warranty. It would be better if leapfrog made new glass plates with wider holes.

Also, I found out that the y-direction of the bed can only be used 28 cm and not 29 like they mention in the specs. Now I need to rotate my model a bit to still fit the bed, but it is curved, so it is really hard to make this work I guess.


Hi Param

i just checked my bed now, i didnt do much measuring but it does seem like the bed is straighter now. it takes a few weeks for it to return to straight when it has some moving space/ not under pressure/tension.

You bet! Please check out the following link: Latest updates for Creatr HS

A client just earlier reported trouble accessing the very same page, so I've attached the 2.2.1 Software.rar file to this post. My apologies for not directing you all to this earlier. Enjoy!

Yes that is correct, I came to a position where I simply needed the printer to work. Sadly the printer in general do not meet my expectations, I bought it as a plug and play printer, but there has been so many variables on this printer that doesn't ad up, so I finally got tired on this particular I'll constructed feature and made my own modification. Don't get me wrong here, it's probably not easy to produce such a rather complex item as a 3d printer, especially in this fast growing market. But the reality is that this printer probably needs some serious re-work in order to function as advised, I simply don't have the time for this, nor going through the hassle of sending it back, and being left without printer. I simply need a printer to work, hence making my own adjustments as I go along.


And of course the moment I hit send on my previous post, our tech team receives a memo about this same topic asking us to get the word out to all our clients about the update. 

Please read this blog update from one of our software programmers: Blog: Stand Alone Software and Firmware Updates

After, updating the Stand-Alone Software and the Firmware, please note that under-extrusion might start occuring in your PLA prints unless you adjust your Extrusion Multiplyer Setting in Simplify 3D's print settings to a value of 1 (if it's not already set).

Many thanks!

-Aaron C. - Leapfrog Technical Support Team

I have measured my bed also and it seems to be higher in the middle too.

About .8 MM but that is a rough measurement as I am not sure how to exactly measure it.

I put a straight edge across the bed and you can see a definite gap.  I dont see this on other bots that I have.  I actually have a delta bot that was shipped to me with bad warped glass and the manufacturer replaced it, so I guess it can happen.


As I type this, I just heard back from Leapfrog - I reported my glass as warped and they are sending me a new one! - Didnt expect that quick response but they just asked me where to send it, no other questions or explination, so I assume they are aware of this problem???

Lets hope that one is flat and easy to install :-)

Anyone else get this type of response?


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User Manual

Quick Start Guide

Installation clips
The following 3 clips will guide you through the installation process of your Creatr. By following these, you will be printing within 30 minutes. First start with unpacking the printer. Clickhere to see how you correctly pick up the printer

Part 1 of 3: Unpacking your Creatr

In this clip, you will be guided through the unpacking of a brand new Creatr. The unboxing along with the location of tie wraps which need to be removed are shown, as well as the process of a connecting the cables to the printer and computer.

Part 2 of 3: Software and configuration

In this clip, we will show you how to install the required software. The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. The next step is to download and install the Repetier Host Leapfrog software or that controlls your 3D printer. We have tried to make this as simple as possible and also provided direct downloading links per operating system.

If you are using the new Simplify 3D software you can follow all the steps except for the Repetier-Host Leapfrog installation and using explanation. Simply download the software via the purchase link and before first use a pop-up will appear showing you the Simplify 3D Quick start guide. You can also download the Quick start guide or access it from the software via help –> Quick start guide. The quick start guide will briefly explain the functions of the software so that you can start your first print.

Please select you operating system and follow the descriptions in the movie.

Operating systemWindows

The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. The next step is to download and install the newest version of the Repetier Host Leapfrog software as shown in the clip. This software allows you to convert your 3D software file [STL for example] to a printable file [G-Code] and allows you to control your printer. The Repetier Host Leapfrog software contains standard Creatr Print Profiles. Just select the extruder, the filament material as well as the color and Repetier will automatically select the ideal print temperature providing you the best print quality possible. There is also a Leapfrog support button implemented in the software. A Mac version will be available soon.

If you have followed the installation procedure, but you can’t control your Leapfrog Creatr and the “6 commands waiting” message in Repetier-Host Leapfrog won’t disappear, you have to install the 2.8.28 drivers. Please see Solution can’t connect 6 commands waiting in Repetier-Host Leapfrog how to do so.

For a more thorough description of Slic3s settings please check this guide!

Windows 8
To install the Arduino drivers on a computer with Windows 8 follow these steps after downloading the Arduino software.

- Save unsaved work and write the instructions down
[your computer will reboot into startup options screen]
- Press the Windows Key and the ‘R’ key simultaneously
- Copy the command inside the brackets
–>[ shutdown.exe /r /o /f /t 00 ] – Select ‘Troubleshoot’
- Select ‘Advanced options’
- Select ‘Startup Settings’
- Select ‘Disable Driver Signature Enforcement’
- Install driver as usual via device manager


In this clip, we will explain you how you can generate a STL file using Sketchup. We show you what to download and how to export your design in STL.

Part 3 of 3: Making your first print!

In this final clip, the process of creating your first print will be explained. This starts with removing the callibration print that is already on the print bed. How to insert the filament and operate the Repetier Host Leapfrog software is also shown, which should culminate in your first 3D Print on the Creatr!

Google sketchupHow to export STL files from Sketchup

The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. You will then need to in stall this driver for OSX to recognize the hardware.

The next step is to download the Repetier software as shown in the clip. This software allows you to convert your 3D software file [STL for example] to a printable file [G-Code] and allows you to control your printer. We have developed standard print profiles for the Creatr. Please follow the instructions below to install the print profiles for Mac [not yet included in the video]:

- Download This file
- Go to your Home Folder on Mac and select “Go to Folder” from the Go Menu en type “Library/Application Support/Slic3r/” - Unzip the file you just downloaded and dump the contents in the Slic3r folder, it will replace your existing settings. If you want to keep your current settings as well, take the contents from each folder and put this in the same folder in the Home/Libaray/App../Slic3r folder.

Download instructions by Deepak Dinesh Mehta For a more thorough description of Slic3s settings please check this guide!

Troubleshooting Trees

Filament Guide

  • Extrude at ~ 225o C.
  • Requires heated bed.
  • Works reasonably well without cooling.
  • Adheres best to polyimide tape.
  • Filament tolerances are usually tighter.
  • Prone to cracking, delamination, and wraping.
  • More flexible.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives or solvents(Acetone or MEK).
  • Fumes are unpleasent in enclosed areas.
  • Oil Based.
  • Extrude at ~ 180-225o C.
  • Benefits from heated bed.
  • Benefits greatly from cooling while printing.
  • Adheres well to a variety of surfaces.
  • Finer feature detail possible on a well calibrated machine.
  • Prone to curling of corners and overhangs.
  • More brittle.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives.
  • More pleasant smell when extruded.
  • Plant Based.

Demo Print Downloads

Drivers Downloads

Software Downloads

Firmware Downloads

Please request a firmware download via the Ticket System

Creatr Video Library