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Can't print using Simplify3D (ABS wont stick on surface)

I've submitted my subject in the following forum: http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2529

But since i am not sure if there is any of you guys (leapfrog + community) having a simlair problem.

Copy-paste of the situation:

While i am using a feshly installed Simplify3D (tried 2.1.0 and 2.2.2) using the Leapfrog Creatr Dual profile (didn't change any settings) my print just wont stick at the bed...
It does when i am using other software so it is not hardware realated (also changed my kaptop tape).
Even on the first layer, the first bit of print just wont stick to the bed, it's like he is rejecting to stick to it.
I am clueless at this point, what i did notice though was that the height of the first layer was at 70% wich is kinda odd, since it's 200% at slic3r. But i've turned off my printer since i am trying to sort this out for 7 hours straight already!
Anyone here having the same issue or has any possible solution? (all help is apprecaited)
Thanks in advance!

1 person has this problem

You could probably try to match your settings to slic3r and use the 200% initial height. 

I was using Leapfrog print stickers for ABS prints using Simplify3D and the print always sticks so hard the sticker always gets damaged.

Using Kapton tape, I have the same problem as yours. I tried playing around with the settings (Higher Bed Temp (90 C) and larger first layer width). It worked to some extent. The first layer sticks, but after a few layers and the ABS starts to warp, the part starts to come off the build plate.

My solution comes in the form of UHU glue sticks. 

This has worked wonders for me. Just coat the kapton tape generously and the part will stick just enough during the print. Apparently it has just enough stickiness to resist warping. At the end of the print, the part will pop right off, with no damage to the kapton tape. The only downside is that you won't get that glossy bottom like when you use bare kapton. 

My suggestion is to clean the glue after printing to prevent dust and dirt from sticking to the kapton. I use a standard all purpose cleaner (like Formula 409). Re-coat it with these cheap glue sticks just before the print starts and you are all set!

Let me know how you fixed your problem. I would love to know if there are alternative solutions.

Best Regards,

Joe Trisnadi


this has nothing to do with the software. you must change your 1st layer height&speed maybe even temp of bed.

when the height is right it will stick, sometimes even too much. you have to try what goes best with your bed setting. ( changing the screw settings of the bed will also make a difference, and dont forget to make the bed perfectly level!) , my bed is slightly bent so some places it sticks better than others. ( yes my glass is bent!! came like this from the factory) 

I tried many foils and must say Kapton is shit! worst of all foils I tried. 

the Avery foil supplied by leapfrog is best. everything sticks on here ( with correct 1st layer height) 

The ultimate solution to ABS first layer printing and anti-warping is ABS juice directly on top of glass (don't apply it to the provided tape or kapton as you will have to destroy the tape when getting the model off). Google it and thank me later :)

1 person likes this

We had a Leapfrog Creatr Dual with a slightly warped glass platform. I know this post is old but i think the best product going to ABS to stick is Buildtak. Bonus is that it works with PLA as well.

Thanks for all the replies, I am still having problems with my printing. The 'not sticking problem' is fixed though, the bed was leveled too high, but now I've leveled it to low, it damages my print stickers and also my prints come out somewhat decent. How can I level it correctly? The bed leveling wizard in Simplify3D doesn't seem to work out that well, also my extruders seem to differ from height wich makes it even more difficult.

We do our leveling manually. Basically we Home the Z Axis, Disable the Motors and move the head around the platform testing various locations until we are happy that we have minimal friction between the nozzles and a piece of paper.

If you have uneven nozzles you need to adjust them so they are perfectly flat.

The manual will show you how to do this, the best way to get both nozzles flat is to use the platform as a flat edge, i guess this will only work if your bed is level to begin with.

Have tried all the above, UHU glue, ABS juice, avery labels, tape and buildtak. Nothing works the print just wont stick, and then to make it worse the second print head catches on the large deposits the first print head makes as it doesn't stick and pulls the deposits that have stuck off. I have spent many days trying to level the bed, and today found that the main carrier was 8mm lower at the back to the front. Had to undo drive belt and align table, then to work out glass is not flat! This is a very expensive paper weight, I think it will be cheaper to purchase another machine, rather than spend the time trying to get this second rate one working! Very disappointed, sad to think that and UP plus 2 worked straight out of the box and never had any of the problems this thing has. I actually wore the extruder out on the plus it did so much work!!!! I have had this piece of crap for over twelve months and haven't had a single print work! Disgusted!

Ross I had exactly all the same problems at first and was also very disappointed. now I have the machine running OK. ( I also think the HS was sent out a bit early)

you are right it does not work out of the box at all..

here how it goes: The glass is bent because the screws are pressing against it. Remove the 4 screws, only shave off the thread that touches the glass, reassemble, the glass will go straight again after a few weeks.( too much horizontal pressure on the glass)

Bed leveling is the most important! 

level the 2 nozzles is just as important! (unscrew one nozzle and level on the leveled bed)

Level bed!

the avery films work best, (well it also depends what material you use)

to get it to stick, the first layer height and speed is critical! again this is a calibration issue. 

Preset speeds are MUCH too fast. go real slow.

A home position 0.1mm over film is ok for a good adherence, then change parameter of first layer height until you find a good setting.

I dont know what you mean with the 8mm difference..?

Oh yes also upgrade all firmwares etc.!

For me none of the material presets from leapfrog for simplify3d worked, this is quite a job to find good settings, mainly too fast and not hot enough, bad cooling settings. forget the basic menu, you really need to dig in the advanced settings.

To get your first layer stick well, don't play too much with the width of the first layer. The machine will automatically use more spacing between the lines and for me this doesn't work. To get the first layer squished on the bed really well, increase the first layer height (I use 175 percent), and give the a slightly negative offset for the Z-axis when starting. To Mark: the bolts of my heated bed do not seem to be touching the glass plate, there is still room for a bit of movement. Yet the build plate seems to be curved. Did you see this as well? Or was there really a tight fit?
hello . I had this problem before but now i solve this problem by making a cover for top of my printer ( creatr HS ) same to lpfrg . and now every thing is OK without any glue or another things . i just use of stiker paper and set bed temprature to 80 c . you can test it .
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User Manual

Quick Start Guide

Installation clips
The following 3 clips will guide you through the installation process of your Creatr. By following these, you will be printing within 30 minutes. First start with unpacking the printer. Clickhere to see how you correctly pick up the printer

Part 1 of 3: Unpacking your Creatr

In this clip, you will be guided through the unpacking of a brand new Creatr. The unboxing along with the location of tie wraps which need to be removed are shown, as well as the process of a connecting the cables to the printer and computer.

Part 2 of 3: Software and configuration

In this clip, we will show you how to install the required software. The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. The next step is to download and install the Repetier Host Leapfrog software or that controlls your 3D printer. We have tried to make this as simple as possible and also provided direct downloading links per operating system.

If you are using the new Simplify 3D software you can follow all the steps except for the Repetier-Host Leapfrog installation and using explanation. Simply download the software via the purchase link and before first use a pop-up will appear showing you the Simplify 3D Quick start guide. You can also download the Quick start guide or access it from the software via help –> Quick start guide. The quick start guide will briefly explain the functions of the software so that you can start your first print.

Please select you operating system and follow the descriptions in the movie.

Operating systemWindows

The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. The next step is to download and install the newest version of the Repetier Host Leapfrog software as shown in the clip. This software allows you to convert your 3D software file [STL for example] to a printable file [G-Code] and allows you to control your printer. The Repetier Host Leapfrog software contains standard Creatr Print Profiles. Just select the extruder, the filament material as well as the color and Repetier will automatically select the ideal print temperature providing you the best print quality possible. There is also a Leapfrog support button implemented in the software. A Mac version will be available soon.

If you have followed the installation procedure, but you can’t control your Leapfrog Creatr and the “6 commands waiting” message in Repetier-Host Leapfrog won’t disappear, you have to install the 2.8.28 drivers. Please see Solution can’t connect 6 commands waiting in Repetier-Host Leapfrog how to do so.

For a more thorough description of Slic3s settings please check this guide!

Windows 8
To install the Arduino drivers on a computer with Windows 8 follow these steps after downloading the Arduino software.

- Save unsaved work and write the instructions down
[your computer will reboot into startup options screen]
- Press the Windows Key and the ‘R’ key simultaneously
- Copy the command inside the brackets
–>[ shutdown.exe /r /o /f /t 00 ] – Select ‘Troubleshoot’
- Select ‘Advanced options’
- Select ‘Startup Settings’
- Select ‘Disable Driver Signature Enforcement’
- Install driver as usual via device manager


In this clip, we will explain you how you can generate a STL file using Sketchup. We show you what to download and how to export your design in STL.

Part 3 of 3: Making your first print!

In this final clip, the process of creating your first print will be explained. This starts with removing the callibration print that is already on the print bed. How to insert the filament and operate the Repetier Host Leapfrog software is also shown, which should culminate in your first 3D Print on the Creatr!

Google sketchupHow to export STL files from Sketchup

The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. You will then need to in stall this driver for OSX to recognize the hardware.

The next step is to download the Repetier software as shown in the clip. This software allows you to convert your 3D software file [STL for example] to a printable file [G-Code] and allows you to control your printer. We have developed standard print profiles for the Creatr. Please follow the instructions below to install the print profiles for Mac [not yet included in the video]:

- Download This file
- Go to your Home Folder on Mac and select “Go to Folder” from the Go Menu en type “Library/Application Support/Slic3r/” - Unzip the file you just downloaded and dump the contents in the Slic3r folder, it will replace your existing settings. If you want to keep your current settings as well, take the contents from each folder and put this in the same folder in the Home/Libaray/App../Slic3r folder.

Download instructions by Deepak Dinesh Mehta For a more thorough description of Slic3s settings please check this guide!

Troubleshooting Trees

Filament Guide

  • Extrude at ~ 225o C.
  • Requires heated bed.
  • Works reasonably well without cooling.
  • Adheres best to polyimide tape.
  • Filament tolerances are usually tighter.
  • Prone to cracking, delamination, and wraping.
  • More flexible.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives or solvents(Acetone or MEK).
  • Fumes are unpleasent in enclosed areas.
  • Oil Based.
  • Extrude at ~ 180-225o C.
  • Benefits from heated bed.
  • Benefits greatly from cooling while printing.
  • Adheres well to a variety of surfaces.
  • Finer feature detail possible on a well calibrated machine.
  • Prone to curling of corners and overhangs.
  • More brittle.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives.
  • More pleasant smell when extruded.
  • Plant Based.

Demo Print Downloads

Drivers Downloads

Software Downloads

Firmware Downloads

Please request a firmware download via the Ticket System

Creatr Video Library