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New Nozzle design

Hi All. 

I just  wondered, I recently bought a set of new nozzles to my HS. 

the design is somewhat different compared to the old ones, they have a wider angle close to the print area. 

Has any one tried these, but I cant get them to work, no matter at what setting it seems. i have tried to recalibrate the print bed, tried alternate print heights (increments by a hundreds of a mill), i have fiddled with the extrusion, but it seems no matter what I do, at some point the nozzle eventually scoops up some of the extruded material and thus ruining the print. 

It is not suppose to be this hard..... 


Ohh BTW, all though I got the extruders to work better, the nozzle design is still very bad. It seems there is a really small window of success. Currently I get it to work at 2000mm/min, 110 % with/height on first layer, at 40% speed. Bed alignment, 0.1 mm tightly set with a feeler gauge. But only at a 15-20% success rate, so definitely, not a good design.
Hey Marc. I would surely be interested in a set of stainless nozzles, if you can source them? Perhaps even hardened ;-)? Have done a similar project involving hot water under pressure, precision and correct flow was key. In that case we found that synthetic rubys as a restrictor was the best way to go. Perhaps a synthetic ruby can be made as a nozzle, albeit not to cheap a guess. Anyway, one of the alternatives we had was a stainless hardened nozzle, this comes very close to the ruby in terms of longevity. But perhaps a reworked heatbreak combined with a hardened stainless nozzle is a better option. I would like to see a sealing surface, slightly cone/spherical shaped at the bottom of the nozzle and a matching one on the heatbreak. This way one avoids filament migration into the threads of the nozzle. The current design is very sensitive in just this case, if the heater block is not properly adjusted, then the nozzle will not attach properly (mate all the way), leaving a small gap between the heatbreak and the nozzle, allowing filament to migrate into the threads. What do you guys think, perhaps worth the effort? J

Haven't had the chance to test them yet, but discovered our last batch of originals were all varying in diameter. So i welcome the change providing they are accurate.

oh no, I hope they go back to the original design, this flat geometry is shit. I have similar cheap ones like this and I also never got them to work. the flat surface rips or smears the melted filament immediately, impossible to get any usable result. I was just going to order new ones, but if this is the design i won't. I am having stainless steel nozzles made from a company but it take a while. Once I have them I'll post it if someone wants some. 

I am thinking of making the ultimate nozzle out of ceramic so you never need to change them again. ( but more expensive)

also i was doing some calculations about the precision of a nozzle, the must be VERY precise!!

0,5mm nozzle: a 0.01mm difference in diameter mean a 2% variation in extrusion is needed! 

0.35mm nozzle:  a 0.01mm difference in diameter mean a 3% variation in extrusion is needed! 

Hey Aaron

Well, the picture does not  tell, but I have tried to run one nozzle at a time, but surely, it make sense to realign both extruders, so they do not mess up all ready printed material. I normally do this.  

It seems I might now what is causing these problems with prints. The pinch wheel feeding the filament  was totally  worn out, really dull to the feel. Lpfrg are sending me some new ones, but I actually managed to source a couple which I believe are better made than the stainless ones that normally come with printer. 

The ones I found are made from steel and casted, so they will probably be a good deal harder. 

Testing now, will see how it turns out......  

Hey Jens B,

I see that you tried recalibrating the print bed, but sometimes - specially when nozzles get replaced - it's good to re-align the nozzle heights to make sure the nozzles are the same height. Here's a link on how to do that : How to Align your Creatr HS Extruders

From the digital photo that you attached, you may need to try that and see if that helps.


Aaron C.

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User Manual

Quick Start Guide

Installation clips
The following 3 clips will guide you through the installation process of your Creatr. By following these, you will be printing within 30 minutes. First start with unpacking the printer. Clickhere to see how you correctly pick up the printer

Part 1 of 3: Unpacking your Creatr

In this clip, you will be guided through the unpacking of a brand new Creatr. The unboxing along with the location of tie wraps which need to be removed are shown, as well as the process of a connecting the cables to the printer and computer.

Part 2 of 3: Software and configuration

In this clip, we will show you how to install the required software. The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. The next step is to download and install the Repetier Host Leapfrog software or that controlls your 3D printer. We have tried to make this as simple as possible and also provided direct downloading links per operating system.

If you are using the new Simplify 3D software you can follow all the steps except for the Repetier-Host Leapfrog installation and using explanation. Simply download the software via the purchase link and before first use a pop-up will appear showing you the Simplify 3D Quick start guide. You can also download the Quick start guide or access it from the software via help –> Quick start guide. The quick start guide will briefly explain the functions of the software so that you can start your first print.

Please select you operating system and follow the descriptions in the movie.

Operating systemWindows

The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. The next step is to download and install the newest version of the Repetier Host Leapfrog software as shown in the clip. This software allows you to convert your 3D software file [STL for example] to a printable file [G-Code] and allows you to control your printer. The Repetier Host Leapfrog software contains standard Creatr Print Profiles. Just select the extruder, the filament material as well as the color and Repetier will automatically select the ideal print temperature providing you the best print quality possible. There is also a Leapfrog support button implemented in the software. A Mac version will be available soon.

If you have followed the installation procedure, but you can’t control your Leapfrog Creatr and the “6 commands waiting” message in Repetier-Host Leapfrog won’t disappear, you have to install the 2.8.28 drivers. Please see Solution can’t connect 6 commands waiting in Repetier-Host Leapfrog how to do so.

For a more thorough description of Slic3s settings please check this guide!

Windows 8
To install the Arduino drivers on a computer with Windows 8 follow these steps after downloading the Arduino software.

- Save unsaved work and write the instructions down
[your computer will reboot into startup options screen]
- Press the Windows Key and the ‘R’ key simultaneously
- Copy the command inside the brackets
–>[ shutdown.exe /r /o /f /t 00 ] – Select ‘Troubleshoot’
- Select ‘Advanced options’
- Select ‘Startup Settings’
- Select ‘Disable Driver Signature Enforcement’
- Install driver as usual via device manager


In this clip, we will explain you how you can generate a STL file using Sketchup. We show you what to download and how to export your design in STL.

Part 3 of 3: Making your first print!

In this final clip, the process of creating your first print will be explained. This starts with removing the callibration print that is already on the print bed. How to insert the filament and operate the Repetier Host Leapfrog software is also shown, which should culminate in your first 3D Print on the Creatr!

Google sketchupHow to export STL files from Sketchup

The first step is to download and install the Arduino software to make it possible for your computer to connect with the printer. You will then need to in stall this driver for OSX to recognize the hardware.

The next step is to download the Repetier software as shown in the clip. This software allows you to convert your 3D software file [STL for example] to a printable file [G-Code] and allows you to control your printer. We have developed standard print profiles for the Creatr. Please follow the instructions below to install the print profiles for Mac [not yet included in the video]:

- Download This file
- Go to your Home Folder on Mac and select “Go to Folder” from the Go Menu en type “Library/Application Support/Slic3r/” - Unzip the file you just downloaded and dump the contents in the Slic3r folder, it will replace your existing settings. If you want to keep your current settings as well, take the contents from each folder and put this in the same folder in the Home/Libaray/App../Slic3r folder.

Download instructions by Deepak Dinesh Mehta For a more thorough description of Slic3s settings please check this guide!

Troubleshooting Trees

Filament Guide

  • Extrude at ~ 225o C.
  • Requires heated bed.
  • Works reasonably well without cooling.
  • Adheres best to polyimide tape.
  • Filament tolerances are usually tighter.
  • Prone to cracking, delamination, and wraping.
  • More flexible.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives or solvents(Acetone or MEK).
  • Fumes are unpleasent in enclosed areas.
  • Oil Based.
  • Extrude at ~ 180-225o C.
  • Benefits from heated bed.
  • Benefits greatly from cooling while printing.
  • Adheres well to a variety of surfaces.
  • Finer feature detail possible on a well calibrated machine.
  • Prone to curling of corners and overhangs.
  • More brittle.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives.
  • More pleasant smell when extruded.
  • Plant Based.

Demo Print Downloads

Drivers Downloads

Software Downloads

Firmware Downloads

Please request a firmware download via the Ticket System

Creatr Video Library